Unlike many other archaeological sites of Greece, the Methoni castle is a vast, open space, with pockets of interest scattered around, mostly hidden. This only adds to the mystery. There is one church, in the middle of the main plateau, that stands alone and seems weirdly out of place. Crumbling staircases take you on the top of the gigantic walls, but you have to really look for a way to get to them. There are underground passages that lead to enclosed battlements and storage facilities. Remnants of Doric columns. And, of course, at the very edge of the peninsula, across a narrow bridge, the Bourtzi: a single octagonal tower that served as a prison, standing guard, surrounded by the waves of the Aegean.